An Introduction To Isaan

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It has become  a matter of record that in  an age of mass travel Thailand has become  one of the most visited places on the planet . Each year several million visitors descend on the Kingdom including numerous repeat visitors. Attracted by its beaches, nightlife and the warmth of its people this invasion of visitors has gone on unabated for many years and will probably continue to do so for many more years to come.

However this influx of visitors has been selectively particular about what to see and do in Thailand. Bangkok, the southern beaches, trekking in the north and of course  shopping are the mainstays of Thai Tourism. The result of this focus is that in many areas of the Kingdom foreign visitors  tend to be a bit light on the ground. The main area of Thailand that tends to hide under the radar of most foreign visitors is the North-East Region of Thailand more commonly known as Isaan.

Stretching in a big fist of territory towards Laos and Cambodia, the North-East Region of Thailand covers no less than a third of the Kingdom's land mass. The region also is populated by approximately one third of the Kingdom's citizens.

The region is more commonly known as Isaan from a Mon/Khmer word meaning both  vastness and prosperity. Although Isaan is certainly vast to call it prosperous (in a material sense anyway) is quite a misnomer. As any guide book will explain most of Isaan is a vast sandstone plateau with the most marginal farm land in the country. As such it is the most impoverished region of the Kingdom beset often by hunger, drought and flood.

Thais from other parts of the country have tended in the past to either ignore or disparage Isaan and its inhabitants. This has in the main been due to cultural differences. The people of Isaan whilst being Thai citizens have a cultural history that is more Lao than Thai. The Mekong river not only defines the border of Isaan but in a sense has also  defined where Isaan culture began. In fact many non-Isaan Thais often  tend to put North-Easterners down by simply referring to them as Lao.

Although the people of Isaan primarily live in villages and small towns, the region still has several large cities including Nakhonratchasima, Khon Khaen and Ubon Ratchasima. Nakhonratchasima in terms of population is Thailand's second largest city after Bangkok. Isaan however doesn't fit the airbrushed images that come to mind when most foreigners visualise Thailand. The flat dry terrain of Isaan probably reminds more of the Australian Outback or Texas then it does of the more popular imagery of Thailand - Sandy beaches, emerald topped mountains and tropical foliage.

This is not to say that Isaan is totally devoid of scenery. Despite the large areas of territory that need to be crossed there are numerous scenic places of interest. For instance there are the mountains of Loei province and its true scenic gem,the mighty Mekong River region. This together with the Khmer ruins in Phimai and Buriram and the almost complete absence of foreign tourists means that a visitor can get a good look at contemporary Thailand without the accompanying tourist bulldust that is confronted in other parts of the Kingdom.

But finally, what makes Isaan stand out from the rest of the country ?In the final analysis I believe it has to be the people of the North-East. Most North-Easterners have an engaging openness and warmth of nature that is truly intoxicating. These human attributes plus  fiery hot food, whisky-lao , beautiful river towns and the most vibrant culture in Thailand make Isaan truly special.

Over the years it has constantly amazed me how the people of Isaan have influenced foreign perceptions of Thailand. As the poorest region of the Kingdom, countless thousands of its inhabitants leave to seek work all across the country. The sweat of its people has played an enormous part in Thailand's rapid economic growth over the past 25 years.

Of course it has been in the service industries that Isaan has contributed most to foreign perceptions of Thailand. Most tourists after leaving Thailand usually take with them happy memories of the people of Thailand. More often then not these memories are forged by contact with hotel staff, taxi drivers and street vendors many of whom come from Isaan.

To sum up - a place worth visiting and remembering.